When we first encountered Hakutaka, we were struck by the weight of their history. The name Hakutaka translates to “White Hawk,” referencing the pure, dignified spirit bird said to appear once every thousand years — a fittingly celestial symbol for a brewery of such high standing. Since the brewery’s founding in 1862 by Etsuzo Tatsuuma, they have operated under a motto that translates to “good products naturally attract people,” much like how a beautiful plum tree draws a crowd without saying a word. 

This humble philosophy is evident in their relationship with Mie prefecture’s Ise Jingu Shrine, an ancient landmark dedicated to worshipping the sun goddess Amaterasu, said to be the divine ancestor of the emperor. For a century, they have provided “goryoshu,” or sacred sake, for the Higoto Asayu Omike no Matsuri ritual, a 1,500-year-old tradition wherein food and drink are offered to the deities every single morning and evening. Interestingly, when the unglazed ceramic cups are collected after the ritual, they are often empty; the unglazed clay is said to “drink” the liquid, leading many to believe that the gods truly enjoy the brew.

Hakutaka’s commitment to quality is uncompromising.. To maintain the strength of their flavor, they still utilize the labor-intensive kimoto method, which relies on natural lactic acid bacteria and requires immense skill and time. This dedication extends to their ingredients; for over 100 years, they have maintained a contract farming system in the Yokawa area of Hyogo prefecture, securing the finest Yamadanishiki rice. In fact, the first Etsuzo Tatsuuma personally supported the local farmers who developed what would eventually become the gold standard for sake rice.

We chose Hakutaka because they represent the pinnacle of tradition preserved without vanity. From the stone monument at their entrance gifted by the high priest of Ise Jingu, to the dedicated storage room built with sacred wood from the shrine, every corner of the brewery breathes a sense of divine responsibility. When you open a 17-ounce (500-milliliter) bottle of their sake, you aren’t just drinking a beverage; you are participating in an ancient ritual of purity and excellence.