Tsunan is legendary for being one of the snowiest inhabited places on earth; in February 2022, the town recorded a staggering 13.7 feet of snowfall. During the peak of winter, the brewery is often completely buried — a white cocoon that provides a stable, ice-cold environment ideal for slow fermentation. This abundance of snow feeds the underground aquifers of Mount Naeba and the springs of Ryugakubo, providing the brewery with some of Japan’s most celebrated soft water. This water is so pure and smooth that it is distributed across Japan, serving as the lifeblood of the brewery’s flavorful, umami-forward sake.

The modern era of Naeba Brewing Company began when Mitsuei Shimbo, a veteran of the local hotel and restaurant industry, took over the historic brewery to prevent its closure due to a lack of successors. Shimbo envisioned sake that could stand alongside fine wine and appeal to a global palate. To realize this, he appointed Shota Takeda as toji in 2024. At just 29 years old, Takeda brings youthful energy and a willingness to break tradition, focusing on manual techniques that larger breweries have long abandoned in favor of efficiency.

While 95% of the industry uses a standard three-step brewing process to maximize volume, Naeba Brewing Company specializes in “ichidan-jikomi” (one-step brewing method) for their Yuki no Mayu brand. This method is notoriously difficult and expensive, requiring nearly three times the amount of rice and offering the brewer only one chance to get the flavor right. The result is a slightly lower-alcohol sake — around 14% ABV — that retains a lush, melon-like sweetness and a crisp acidity. To protect these delicate flavors, the mash is pressed using “fukuroshibori” (bag pressing), where it is hung in bags and allowed to drip gently under its own weight. This is a lengthy process typically used for the most refined sake.

This gentle pressing method leaves behind an extraordinary amount of “sake kasu” (sake lees) — up to 70% of the original rice weight compared to the industry standard of 30%. Rather than wasting this aromatic byproduct, the brewery immediately distills it into fragrant shochu, which has earned gold medals in international competitions. This circular approach ensures that every grain of Niigata rice is honored, reflecting a deep respect for the farmers and the land that sustains them.