HEAVENSAKE — the sake a Champagne cellar master blends in Japan
Régis Camus spent 20 years as cellar master of Piper-Heidsieck and Charles Heidsieck. He now does the same job with Japanese sake: he does not brew it, he blends it. Four bottles, from $33.
Which HEAVENSAKE should you buy?
Every bottle is junmai — rice, water, koji and nothing else. What changes is which brewery Camus worked with, and how far the rice was polished.
Shipping is $19.50 flat, however many bottles you buy.
HEAVENSAKE “Noguchi” Prestige I ($850) is sold out. It is a blend of unreleased sake from the personal collection of Noguchi Naohiko, put together by Camus. We will list it again when we can get it.
Every HEAVENSAKE is junmai
Junmai means rice, water and koji — no distilled alcohol added, natural fermentation only. It is a smaller category than most people assume.
Régis Camus (left) with Koichi Saura, president of the Urakasumi brewery. Courtesy of HEAVENSAKE.
He does not brew the sake. He decides how it goes together.
Almost all sake is sold as a single brew. Camus does what he did in Champagne for 20 years: he takes separate batches, tastes them, and decides the proportions. That decision is the product. HEAVENSAKE calls it assemblage.
We asked him about it.
“When adding one wine to another wine, that doesn’t make two — it makes much more. For me, assemblage is like a puzzle.”Régis Camus, interviewed by Palate Project, December 2022
“When one tastes HEAVENSAKE, one takes it on the nose, on the mouth, and one tastes it, really, like a wine.”Régis Camus
You will also see the name written as two words, Heaven Sake. It is the same brand.
The four breweries he works with
Camus does not own a brewery. Each bottle is brewed by a Japanese kura in its own house style, and blended afterwards.
Konishi
The oldest sake brewery still owned and run by the same family. Water comes off the Rokko and Nagao mountains.
Dewazakura
Their 1980 release Oka Cherry Bouquet helped start Japan’s ginjo boom.
Urakasumi
Run by the Saura family, now in its 13th generation. Two hundred years ago it was appointed to make the sake for the local shrine.
Niizawa
Known for polishing rice further than almost anyone in Japan.
The bottle and the seal
The bottle shape was drawn to sit between three things: the purity of water, the timelessness of wine and the character of champagne.
The seal on the label is a hexagon — the shape France is nicknamed for — drawn in irregular calligraphic lines that form three smaller hexagons: water, rice and koji.
Shipping and handling
Flat rate for alcohol, however many bottles are in the order.
Choose it at checkout if you need the bottle by a date.
Someone 21 or over must sign for the delivery. We cannot leave it at the door.
HEAVENSAKE is imported through licensed distributors. It is not one of our direct-import bottles.